Squirrel Nutkin Glazed Image Bezel Pendant Project

Seal a cute free image from Beatrix Potter's Squirrel Nutkin book under a shiny layer of art glaze.

Supplies:

• Circular brass bezel cup pendant with an inside diameter of 25mm
• Free Squirrel Nutkin collage sheet
• Ink jet printer
• 6 x 9 sheet of glossy photo printing paper
• Lumiere craft paint in Super Copper
• Artist paint brush
• Mod Podge
• One-inch circle paper punch
• Clear packing tape
• Scissors
• Rubbing alcohol and cotton swab
• Paper towel
• DG3 Art Gel (or your choice of clear glaze or resin)
• Craft stick
• Empty shoe box
• Your choice of findings and necklace cord or stringing supplies. The necklaces in the examples use twisted gold-tone jump rings for bails, Beadalon 19-strand Stringing Wire, Toho beads in olivine orange mix and green mix (source coming soon), gold plated #2 crimp beads, jump rings, and lobster clasps.

Beadjewelry.net is an affiliate of Delphi Glass, CeateForLess, and Artbeads.com.

In this photo, the bezel frame on the right has a softer color, which you can achieve by thinning the Lumiere paint with water.

Directions:

1. Download the free Squirrel Nutkin collage sheet, and print it out on glossy photo paper. (I selected "photo printing" and "vivid photo" in my printing setup options.)

2. Cover the image of your choice (I used Squirrel Nutkin and Old Brown) with clear packing tape, and use scissors to trim off any excess. Press down the entire surface of the tape with your fingers to even it out and remove any air pockets. (This is the best method for sealing glossy, ink-jet printed images to avoid bubbles and clouding while the glaze is curing.)

3. Align the circle punch with the image, and punch it out. (I used a Fiskars two-handle model and cut down the side of the paper a little with scissors first.)

4. Set the image aside, and paint the frame of the bezel cup with a layer of Lumiere Super Copper paint, them immediately wipe it with a paper towel to back off some color. (This paint can dry very fast; if it dries too quickly, you can use a fine-grit sanding pad to back off more color.)

5. When the paint is dry, use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to clean the inside of the bezel cup, and allow it to dry.

6. Use a clean artist's brush to apply a thin layer of Mod Podge to the back side of the image.

7. Press the image down firmly and evenly in the bezel cup, and give the Mod Podge about 10 minutes to dry.

8. Gently squeeze a small amount of glaze onto the image, being careful not to shake the bottle (which can produce bubbles).

9. Use a craft stick to slowly spread the gel to the inside edges of the bezel cup. (I used a small craft stick I picked up at Michaels.) Apply a little more glaze, if necessary to cover the entire image; but make this first layer relatively thin. If the glaze goes over the edge, dab it gently with the corner of a paper towel to soak up the excess.

10. Set the bezel down for a few minutes, and then pick it up again. Hold it up so that you can see light reflected on the surface of the glaze, and look for bubbles. If you see any, use a dry artist's brush, a small craft stick, or a toothpick to push them out. (Since glaze is water based, you can wash it out of your brush with plain water.)

11. Gently set down the bezel in a place where it will be undisturbed, and cover it with a clean, empty shoe box to protect it from dust.

12. After 24 hours, check the degree of curing by gently pressing the surface of the glaze with your finger tip. If it feels soft, allow it to cure undisturbed for another 12 to 24 hours. Keep in mind that even after 48 hours, the glaze may be solid but not fully cured; it will continue to harden over time.

13. When the glaze has cured, apply a second coat. Allow that coat to cure undisturbed for another 24 to 48 hours.

14. When the second coat of glaze has dried, you can (optionally) apply a third coat to create a more domed surface, or move forward and assemble your necklace.

15. Attach a jump ring or pinch bail to your pendant, and string it onto beading wire with your choice of beads, or slide it onto a leather, satin, or silk cord. Finish the ends with your choice of end findings. (To review basic bead stringing, see my portable handbook Beading Quick Tips.)

Notes:

• Art glaze typically is not water proof, and you should not allow your pendant to get wet.
• You can attempt to remove noticeable surface imperfections by waiting for the glaze to cure, lightly sanding its surface, and then applying another coat of glaze.
• To keep the top surface of your glaze even, be sure to set your pendant on a perfectly flat surface to cure.
• For help with this project, or to share your own tips, please post a comment here.